I first went to Sabina in 2019 for the gran fondo that started at the Forano velodrome. That’s where I met Paolo Donati, the race organizer. What began as a simple work assignment soon became a genuine friendship, one that, like the roads in the Sabine Hills, has endured over time. Since then, I often return to this region, drawn by its slow, authentic rhythm that seems to resist the march of time. Just 30 kilometers northeast of Rome, in the province of Rieti, this corner of Lazio unfolds in gentle hills, olive groves and quiet medieval villages. Here, the bicycle is more than sport, it’s a way of life, a way to discover and belong.
In the heart of the Tiber Valley lies a rare treasure, the Velodromo Aldo Denaro di Forano, a 250-meter Olympic-size track, unique in central Italy. The municipal facility hosts training sessions, regional and national races, and even offers track bikes for anyone curious to try the thrill of fixed-gear riding. Every time I go there, I feel the same energy: children training, enthusiasts tuning their bikes, voices echoing around the track.
Without that track, I wouldn’t be the rider I am today.
“As we teach the kids,” Paolo tells me, “cycling is about respect, discipline and freedom.” Through his local cycling club, he mentors young riders between 6 and 12 and supports a team of amateurs who ride on the road, gravel and mountain trails. It’s a small community that keeps alive the passion for cycling and their land.
Among the cyclists is Marco Bernardinetti, a former pro turned Italian masters champion and a long-time pillar of the Forano cycling club. “For me, the velodrome was more than a track,” Marco says. “It’s where I learned the foundations of cycling, how to handle the bike, move in a group, prepare for a sprint. Until I was 12, I could train safely there, away from traffic, sometimes riding up to 60 kilometers in a single session. Without that track, I wouldn’t be the rider I am today.”
FULL STORY IN PRINT
