Every cyclist dreams of watching the Tour de France in person just as much as every cook dreams of traveling and eating in France. This past July, I was lucky enough to return to Paris—ostensibly to watch skinny racers ride bikes very fast, but inevitably to eat far more calories in a single meal than a pro rider gets in an entire day. The hardest part about being a chef who loves cycling is simple: No matter how much I ride, train and try to keep up, food always wins. I will never be the skinny bike racer. But I will always be the chef chasing the next flavor, the next adventure and at least three unforgettable meals a day.
The rich history of the Tour and the culinary history of France have always gone hand in hand. The race cuts across regions that each hold their own distinct flavors and traditions. Just as the Tour has its legends like Anquetil, Merckx and Hinault so haute cuisine has its great chefs like Paul Bocuse of Lyon, Anne-Sophie Pic in Valence and Guy Savoy in Paris. My trip was about being in Paris after years away, revisiting beloved bistros, exploring new spots and relying on friends’ recommendations more than any guidebook. Paris can be overwhelming. The market halls alone—pastries, chocolates, butchers, patisseries on every corner—feel like a dream. There are also chains, fast food joints and plenty of misses. The real challenge is navigating the city to ensure each meal is worth the calories.
The best aspects of Paris are its walkability and the Métro—which means you can attempt to balance your step count against your pastry intake. Each morning can start with a four-shot Americano and a croissant; and the day then becomes a joyful zigzag across the city, discovering something new and savoring meals instead of rushing through them. Dining in Paris is like bike racing—you need a plan, a strategy and a sense of pace. Two fine-dining meals in one day? Impossible for me. A mix of bistros, new-school spots, a little indulgence and a lot of walking is the key. Here is just a taste of what my wife Tatiana and I did on our trip to Paris while watching the Tour.
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