Cities in Mittel-Europe have a special charm, and when it comes to charm, Prague offers plenty. Gothic and Baroque, modernist and socialist, dark and mystical, warm and familiar, all of it condensed into the uniqueness that’s the Czech Republic’s capital. No wonder Prague is an inspiration and a setting for many a mysterious story. As local author Paul Leppin once wrote: “Prague remains my deepest experience. Its conflicts, its mystery, its rat-catcher’s beauty have ever provided my poetic efforts with new inspiration and meaning.”
I enjoy walking its cobbled streets, soaking up the cinematic atmosphere, browsing independent bookshops, noticing Art Nouveau details on the buildings, riding the old trams on winding tracks, watching sunlight flicker on the Vltava River, sitting in old-style cafés and modern coffee shops, but probably most of all, I enjoy the food. The food scene is so vibrant that whenever I travel to Prague, I plan where and when to eat so I can fit in as many good places as possible in a short period. The Czechs care for their traditions and take pride in their local produce, while simultaneously embracing progress without fuss. Prague is big on natural wine and specialty coffee—and it does so in a casual, non-trendy manner. You can have a cup of coffee in a grand old Viennese-style café, as well as be spoiled for choice when it comes to specialty coffee.
The café also doubles as a wine bar, and I can only imagine how magical it must be to sit in the garden on a summer evening.
Here’s my list of great places to eat and drink, organized by what I think each place is best for: coffee or breakfast, lunch or dinner. The lines are, of course, blurred, and largely a matter of personal preference. Some places are just as good for breakfast as they are for lunch, and some make perfect spots for both morning coffee and an evening aperitivo.
TRADITIONAL COFFEE & BREAKFAST
Café Slavia
Café Slavia is a Prague icon. With its Art Deco interior, service that evokes earlier times and giant windows overlooking the Vltava River, it’s a popular spot. Maybe even too popular. Nevertheless, I never miss going there for tea, an open sandwich, or a very good větrník (two halves of a choux pastry joined by caramel whipped cream). It’s a great place to read, listen to live piano music in the afternoon and enjoy the elegant interior (with a majestic green clock). Breakfast is served until 2 p.m.
Cukrárna Myšák
This coffee and pastry shop offers classic Czech pastries, continuing the tradition of František Myšák and his confectionery, founded in 1911. Today, Myšák operates in two locations; I’ve been to the one in Vodičkova street. It has a lovely interior renovated in a traditional style, with marble tabletops, bistro-style chairs, wood paneling and a central bar with a decadent display of cakes and pastries. I went there for a late breakfast: boiled egg, ham, cream cheese, bread, butter and a pot of tea. If you’re looking for a souvenir to take home, there’s a selection of cookies, pralines and chocolatey spreads.
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